Long ignored by beach-bound tourists, Brazil’s economic capital is fast, festive and fun—and no more so than on racing weekend
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At once the biggest city in Brazil and the biggest city in South America, São Paulo is all about superlatives. The city’s delicious abundance of restaurants, the cultural diversity of the population and the magical intensity of its nightlife remain unsurpassed on the continent. And that’s before we even get to the jaw-dropping sight of a setting sun glowing over the skyline, best viewed from a rooftop patio with a Martini & Tonic in hand. São Paulo is Brazil’s booming engine, and the evidence is everywhere—from the stylish penthouses to brand-new art galleries and plush play spaces. All of those energies of the place can be summed up in one word: exhilarating.
The eclectic decor at Brexo Bar (R Tabapuã, 1470, Itaim-Bibi; +55-11-3812-8181)—think bright yellows mixed with shiny black tiling—helps draw a young crowd keen for inventive drinks (including one number that combines bourbon and popcorn). For appetizers, try their twists on Brazilian classics, like coxinha de pernil (ham cake).
Cut from the same cloth as some of the other multi-culti city venues we love, Cartel 011 (Rua Artur de Azevedo 517, +55-11-3081-4171) has a slightly sleeker feel about it, a studied sort of cool that goes with the quality clothes and design objets it sells.
The smart store (Rua Oscar Freire 702, +55-11-3068-6500) has the feel of an art gallery—a long, narrow space with a concrete floor, high ceilings and clothes presented against bare white walls. Don't forget to check out the first floor, where cocktail dresses and gowns are on display alongside home decor such as luxury cushions.
Brazil’s first lady of fashion is known for her perfectionism. Intelligent, interesting and unconventional, Coelho started her career making clothes for friends before leaving to study fashion in Paris. Returning to Brazil in 1974, she opened a boutique called ‘G’ with her sister. Her stores are simple, elegant spaces where bright lighting puts the spotlight firmly on the fashion (Rua Bela Cintra 2173, +55-11-3085-6671).
At this modern-by-name, rustic-by-nature shop in Vila Leopoldina (Rua Coronel Botelho 91, +55-11-3812-7431), you'll find local handicrafts and popular art from across Brazil, a selection of handmade bags and accessories as well as women's fashion. Feira Moderna is also well-known for its ice creams, too, which are a real taste of Brazil made using a range of interesting local fruits and nuts.
If you’re looking for a full immersion in the world of Brazilian coffee, this is the place. Isabela Raposeiras, the renowned barista and proprietress of Coffee Lab (Rua Fradique Coutinho 1340, +55-11-3375-7400), has created a quirky space here in Vila Madalena, complete with a Diedrich coffee roaster. Fittingly, the café resembles a lab, with staff kitted out in overalls making coffee with great attention to detail.
If you’re a car nerd, living in São Paulo can be frustrating: tailbacks have been known to reach totals of almost 300km, so speed can be a rare thrill. Car lovers can get their fill of auto thrills, however, at the Salão Internacional do Automóvel, the largest event of its kind in Latin America, with 450 new rides on display. Nov 10–20
Whether it’s due to the traditionally irregular surface at Autódromo José Carlos Pace, or Sao Paulo’s erratic climate, where scorching sun and torrential rain change places with impressive speed, the Interlagos circuit is one of the most unpredictable ones on the race calendar. And no one embraces that more than the passionate Interlagos crowd. Nov 11–13
The theme of São Paulo’s 32nd Art Bienal, which lasts into December, is ‘Live Uncertainty.’ Hundreds of artworks from 81 artists across 33 countries explore the theme in a sprawling exhibition that is built as a garden. Until Dec 11
The inaugural temporary exhibition at the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) on Avenida Paulista has been reassembled, presenting a vast panorama of the rich material culture of Brazil—around a thousand objects, including figureheads, votive figures, textiles, garments, furniture, tools, utensils, machinery, musical instruments, ornaments, toys, religious objects, paintings and sculptures. Until Jan 29
Feel like rocking out? For the first time since 1993, the original Guns N’ Roses lineup—Axl Rose, Slash and Duff McKagan—performas at the Allianz Parque. The band officially reunited at the Coachella festival in L.A. this April. Fri Nov 11, ticketbis.com.br
