Two weeks in Japan: the ultimate rail itinerary for first-time visitors

Welcome to Tokyo! It’s time to start your trip with a few days in Japan’s exhilarating capital. Most of central Tokyo is accessible by the metro – this is a separate system from Japan Rail and does not fall under the pass, so we recommend you don’t activate your rail pass yet (more on that later).

Shop your way through bustling Shibuya, stroll through Yoyogi Park, visit Meiji Shrine, look for toys and anime goods in Akihabara, and eat and drink your way through the city, from Michelin-starred restaurants to cheap noodle stands and quirky street food (make sure to snap a photo of the crazy cotton candy from Momi & Toys). 

Where to stay in Tokyo

The Asakusa Kokono Club Hotel is spacious by Tokyo standards, close to the famous Sensō-ji (temple), and loaded with delightful design details. On a tight budget? The Toyoko Inn chain has locations all over the city. Quarters are on the smaller side, but rooms are clean and serviceable, and there’s a basic free breakfast.

Next stop… Hirosaki

It’s time to activate your rail pass! Take it to the ticket office of a major Japan Rail station to activate, then book a seat on your northbound train. You can travel from either Tokyo Station or Ueno Station. Reservations (free) are required on the Tohoku Shinkansen, so be sure to secure a booking as soon as you validate your pass.

Ride the Tohoku Shinkansen to Shin-Aomori Station, then switch to the limited express Ou Line to Hirosaki Station. The journey takes four hours.

Hirosaki is a castle town in Aomori Prefecture, the northernmost prefecture in Honshu. Once there, stroll the grounds of Hirosaki Castle and the adjacent park, and visit the Neputa Village to learn about the fascinating culture of neputa: huge paper lanterns covered with depictions of gods and warriors that grace the summer Neputa Festival floats. Don’t leave without sampling the city’s famous apple pastries and hard cider. 

Where to stay in Hirosaki

The Good Old Hotel, in the heart of the drinking and nightlife district, is a row of tiny former ‘snack’ bars converted into accommodation. The Dormy Inn is an efficient chain known for its on-site hot spring baths and free late-night instant ramen. 

Next stop… Akita and Sendai

Train enthusiasts will want to reserve a seat on the scenic Resort Shirakami, running between Hirosaki and Akita. The one-way trip takes under five hours, spent gazing out at the ocean and enjoying some of the onboard interludes, such as a Tsugaru-jamisen performance and a puppet show. Change in Akita, where you can spend a few hours visiting Akita Museum of Art and Senshu Park, adjacent to the station, before boarding a southbound shinkansen (don’t forget your reservation) to Sendai, the capital city of Miyagi Prefecture. The Akita-Sendai train takes two hours 20 minutes. 

Delve into Sendai’s samurai history, learning about the exploits of Masamune Date and the Date Clan, whose mausoleum and statues dot the city. Spirits fans will enjoy visits to the Nikka Whisky Distillery or touring some of the many local sake breweries. In the hot spring enclave of Sakunami Onsen, you’ll find traditional artisans making carved wooden kokeshi dolls and other crafts. 

Where to stay in Sendai

A fun choice in Sendai is the Hen-na Hotel (literally ‘Strange Hotel’) featuring a high-tech, hologram-driven check-in. 

Next stop... Kanazawa

You’ll need two shinkansen to get to Kanazawa on the west coast of Honshu: the Tohoku or Akita Shinkansen from Sendai to Omiya (just over an hour) and the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Omiya to Kanazawa (about two hours). 

The capital of Ishikawa Prefecture, Kanazawa has loads of traditional charm and well-preserved areas with a fraction of the tourists of Kyoto or Tokyo. There’s a lot to pack in here. Stroll around Kanazawa Castle and the colourful Edo-era gardens of Kenroku-en, admire the handsome wooden buildings in the teahouse districts of Higashi Chaya and Nishi Chaya, browse the stalls at Omicho Market, learn about the art of gold leaf and its history in the region, and check out the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art.

Where to stay in Kanazawa

A new(ish) opening in May 2023, Omo5 Kanazawa Katamachi is a boutique mid-range option not far from the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. 

Next stop... Kyoto 

You have a few options to get between Kanazawa and Kyoto; the most direct is the Thunderbird Express, taking about two hours 15 minutes.

There’s so much to see in Kyoto – and everyone else wants to see it too. If possible, visit during the week for slightly fewer crowds. Highlights include Kinkaku-ji (the Golden Pavilion), the pagoda and shopping street at Kiyomizu-dera, and the Zen garden at Ryōan-ji. Use Kyoto as a base to visit nearby cities as well: head over to Osaka (30 minutes by shinkansen) to explore foodie neighborhoods like Dotonbori, Shinsekai, and Kuromon Market. You might also want to visit the ancient capital of Nara to see the enormous Buddhist temple Todaiji and its accompanying tame deer. 

Where to stay in Kyoto

For a nice midrange hotel right near Kyoto Station, try the Rihga Royal Hotel Kyoto, which has an indoor swimming pool and several dining options onsite. For something more classic, there’s Kyomachiya Ryokan Sakura Urushitei, with futon bedding, tatami mats, and traditional furnishings. Do opt in for the excellent Japanese breakfast.  

Next stop... Hiroshima

Time to board the Tokaido Shinkansen from Kyoto to Hiroshima; 1 hour 40 minutes. Reservations are recommended, but not required. 

The focus of any Hiroshima visit is of course Peace Park, the A-Bomb Dome, and Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. Hiroshima is also a beautiful, resilient, and thriving city.

Spend at least half a day visiting the island of Miyajima; with a moderate hike, you’ll catch sight of roaming deer and monkeys, as well as Itsukushima Shrine, a Unesco World Heritage Site famous for its ‘floating’ torii (the red shrine gate that rises from the sea off the coast).

Don’t forget to get your fill of okonomiyaki, Hiroshima’s most famous food, a thick savory pancake made with batter, noodles, vegetables, meat or seafood, and more. Vegan versions are available at several locations including Okonomimura.

Where to stay in Hiroshima

The Knot Hiroshima is a stylish, affordable option near Peace Park; or if you don’t mind tight spaces, why not try a budget capsule hotel? The Sejour Inn Capsule offers pods for all genders (some capsule hotels only accept men), with compact sleeping quarters, lockers, and shared bathing facilities.  

Next stop... Beppu

Take the Tokaido Shinkansen to Kokura Station, then change to the Sonic Nichiren Express to Beppu Station; 2 hours 30 minutes. 

The island of Kyushu generally has a more laid-back vibe than much of Honshu (Japan’s main island), and in the hot spring resort town of Beppu, relaxation is the name of the game. Check out the sulfuric pools and geysers called the ‘Hells’ of Beppu and soar over the active volcano of Mt. Tsurumi on the Beppu Ropeway – then unwind in the region’s famous hot spring baths. Each has different mineral properties that are believed to soothe various ailments. 

Where to stay in Beppu

When in a hot spring town, staying at a ryokan is a must. Try Beppu Nagomitsuki or Ryokan Sennari, both of which offer sumptuous multi-course meals and on-site open-air hot spring baths. 

Next stop... back to Tokyo

Use the last day on your pass to return to Tokyo. Take the Sonic Nichiren Express back to Kokuro, then the Tokaido Shinkansen all the way back to Tokyo; about 6 hours. Don’t forget to pick up a bento at the station or buy one on the train.